Coleman Mach 15 Amp Draw

tonyjsan_2112 South Texas New Member Joined: 07/15/2009 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Member Offline	I am looking for some feedback from others who might have had the Coleman Mach 15 ac, this is there 15,000 btu roof top rv ac. From the luck I've had with them they are the biggest piece of junk on the market. When I got my rv the first coleman lasted 18 months, and failed would ice up would not cool etc., they replace it with another Coleman mach 15 that unit is also failing and it is about 18 months as well, and failing in the exact same way iceing up does not cool runs for hour(s) trying to bring inside temp from like 78 down to 76. So now I have to have it replace this time out of warranty so looking at some $$$$$$ Per coleman I've checked the temp diff going in and temp of air going out it averages about 15 degree cooler in most cases, in terms of amps is pulling about 7 when running last time I checked it. I also notice that the evaporator never gets completely cool / cold only the very top part, that's also part that ice's up, bottom half evaporator stays warm all the time. My questions (sorry such a long post): 1) Any suggestions on what's wrong with the stupid thing, to me I think it's low freon or blockage ????? 2) Is it possible to switch from coleman to dometic (had there ac's never had a problem with them), I know the inside junk has to be changed etc...., this a do diy or time to call in the calvary. Thoughts feedback appreciate, many thank in advance.
fla-gypsy North Florida Senior Member Joined: 04/19/2005 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Member Offline	I have owned 3 Coleman's and never had 1 issue with any of them so I have no help to offer. Not sure why you have had such bad luck with them. This member is not responsible for opinions that are inaccurate due to faulty information provided by the original poster. Use them at your own discretion. 09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10(The Black Pearl) 06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The Cracker Cabana)
Chris Bryant Arden, North Carolina Senior Member Joined: 03/26/2003 View Profile	2 units failing in the same way points to installation problems. Any new unit you install will do the same until the problem is fixed. -- Chris Bryant
tonyjsan_2112 South Texas New Member Joined: 07/15/2009 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Member Offline	Hmm installation issue, good point. The unit is installed at this time as the factory did it, and being was under warranty was done by authorized repair center for coleman. Meaning I've not messed with it yet. Any ideas as to what would is wrong with install ?
Rob's Home Senior Member Joined: 12/28/2009 View Profile Offline	Inadequate Cooling for a while after you turn the system on and then it seems to quit cooling completely. As soon as the housing is removed from the unit with the system running, you observe that the suction line is coated with frost. Question: "Could the system be low on charge or the cap tube plugged?" Answer: "No." Question: "Why not?" Answer: "Because, if it were low on charge or if the cap tube was even partially plugged, the low side would be starved for refrigerant and therefore, the suction line would be warm. Also, the compressor housing would be hot." Question: "Then why isn't it cooling properly?" Answer: "Because the evaporator is not picking up the heat load." Question: "What could cause the evaporator to not pick up the heat load?" Answer: (possible causes and repairs) 1. "The filter could be dirty." This is the most probable cause and, of course, the easiest to check and correct. 2. "The ceiling assembly louvers could be completely closed." This problem is easy to find and it is usually corrected by opening the discharge louvers. 3. "The fan could be at fault." A mechanical problem such as the wheel (squirrel cage) loose on the shaft is usually rather obvious. Checking why a fan motor does not come up to speed is a little more involved. A) Seized bearings – This does not often occur; but if it does, a few drops of oil will usually free them temporarily. If the shaft is scored in the bearings, it will soon tighten up again. Now is the time to replace the motor. b) Partially burned motor windings. c) Shorted or open capacitor. 4. "The evaporator coil face could be coated with lint, dirt, etc. Dirt or lint on the coil will restrict the flow of air through the coil and the unit must be removed from the recreational vehicle and the soil must be thoroughly cleaned with strong detergent (Coil X, Calclean, etc.) and water. Be sure to protect the fan motor and electrical controls during cleaning by covering them with polyethylene sheet. After the system is cleaned, allow it to thoroughly dry for several hours (before turning it on) to prevent electrical shorts. Before system is put back into operation, be sure the filter is properly installed to prevent recurrence of dirty coil. Dometic can be put in as easy as replacing a Colemen Rob RV Tech
tonyjsan_2112 South Texas New Member Joined: 07/15/2009 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Member Offline	thanks great info: Filter is clean, did that first sign of it acting up, the ceiling louvers I have been running ac with all 3 wide open meaning almost all of the air output dumps straight into the rv. Fan seems to be flowing air ok but I'll check for wobbly squirrel cage. Evaporator coil seems clean but will have to take closer look. Thanks again
dclark1946 Richardson,TX,USA Senior Member Joined: 10/05/2003 View Profile Offline	Your current draw is too low for that unit. It should more than 7A. Dick Dick & Karen Richardson,TX 2017 KZ Spree 263RKS 09 F250 V10
dougrainer Carrolton, Texas Senior Member Joined: 06/11/2007 View Profile Offline	1. Amp draw on a Coleman 15k should be anywhere from 10 amps to 16 amps depending on the outside ambient temps and model. At 95 degrees outside temp, the 15k (8335 model) will pull 16.0 amps (compressor at 12.6 amps and the Fan on HIGH at 3.4 amps). At 75 degrees outside it will pull 14.0 amps (compressor at 10.6 amps and the fan stays at 3.4 amps) That said, IF you are having problems then 2 things need verified. If a Ducted system, it is critical that the return and exhaust air is sealed to prevent leakage back to the evaporator. VERY common problem on RVP ducted installs. The second is the mount of the Freeze Thermister. To prevent freeze ups. RVP is just as reliable as Dometic. Doug
Latner Indiana Senior Member Joined: 08/06/2006 View Profile	you said you checked the amperage while running, have you checked the running voltage?
RGordon Atoka, TN/North Ft Myers, FL Senior Member Joined: 02/17/2003 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Member Offline	Your evaporator coils only being cold half way is a good sign it is low on gas and the fact the amps are running low also indicates the same. The evaporator coils should be cold from the bottom to top instead of being cold only at the top. Maybe you were looking at it upside down. Me thinks you have a slow leak, however a 15 degree differential in air temperatures is better than the 20 degree average. If low on freon the compressor could be getting hot and tripping out on thermal. The compressor does depend upon the freon to keep it cool. To check your total enclosed gas system, would require applying a saddle valve to place gauges to determine if pressures are normal and draining the gas out and then welding a new schrader valve, vacuum then add new freon. The saddle valves are temporary and will leak over time. That is the reason for the soldered type valve. Ron & Libby Gordon 07 Ford F350 Dually Tow Boss Diesel 07 Mobile Suites 38RL3 #3698 02 Winnebago Adventurer 35U V10 (Former RV) Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow

Coleman Mach 15 Amp Draw

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